Egypt hadn’t been high on my to-travel list but the Red Sea was well known for diving, so off we went. (Our trip was in October 2018.) After returning, I can’t recommend Egypt enough. All the historic sites and diving opportunities make this a place to visit. It was a dream and for me, it will definitely be a special place.

This video will give you a glimpse into our trip and the fun things we saw and did in Cairo, Luxor, and the Red Sea.

Egypt Blog Posts

If you’re planning a trip to Egypt, check out these posts as you plan:

• Egypt Travel Guide + Itinerary
• Marveling The Great Pyramid of Egypt
• Eating and Drinking in Egypt
• Best Things to Do in Cairo
• Cairo Travel Guide
• You Must See Luxor’s Awe-Inspiring Sights When You Visit Egypt
• Luxor Travel Guide
• Diving the Red Sea on a 7-Day Liveaboard

Have questions about planning a trip to Egypt? Leave a comment below or send me a message!

Keep up with my travel posts and adventures. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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I knew Egypt was going to be an incredible trip. There were many surprised responses before we left, like it was a magical land that people talked about but didn’t know people actually visited. It wasn’t high on my travel list a year before we went and in fact, we had only decided on it five months prior.

We decided on Egypt because of the opportunity to dive in the Red Sea. After that was settled, we couldn’t go to Egypt without taking in the famous sights. There is so much awe-inspiring wonder in Egypt. The history goes back to the crux of civilization. They are still finding historic sculptures and uncovering mysteries to this day!

If you want to see incredible sights that you’ve likely learned about in school and to get out of your comfort zone, consider going to Egypt!

Things to Know When Traveling Egypt

• When to visit: Welcome to the desert! Egypt is hot. You’ll find lows in the 30s and highs in the 100s. June, July, and August are the hottest months while December, January, and February will be the coolest. The best time to go is in September, October, or November.
• Water: Some say you can drink the tap water when you’re in Cairo center but not in the outskirts. We kept it safe and drank bottled water the entire time we were in Egypt.
• Currency: Egyptian Pound or LE. As of 2018, $1 USD is about 17 LE.
• Language: Arabic and there are a few dialects
• Tipping: If you see a service charge on your bill, this is for the restaurant. Usually tip 10% for wait staff. Keep small bills around for tips.
• Visas & Entry: For U.S. citizens, your passport must be valid for six months. When you arrive at the airport, you must get a visa from the bank window (about $25) before going through immigration.
• Safety: As of 2018, Egypt has a travel advisory from the U.S. Department of State as “exercise increased caution” because of activities. Some may not feel comfortable traveling to Egypt because of this designation. See below my section about safety.
• Vaccinations: No special vaccinations needed.
• Religion: The majority of Egyptians are Muslim.
• Ramadan is celebrated in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and the dates vary from year to year. During this time, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown. Do not visit during this time or you may have trouble finding open restaurants. Also, drinking and eating in public while others are fasting could be seen as disrespectful.
• Essentials to Pack: universal charger, sunglasses, hat, sunscreen. (See general suggestions here.)
• Women should bring their own sanitary products. Pads are expensive and tampons are hard to find.

Is it Safe to Travel to Egypt?

As of 2018, Egypt has a travel advisory from the U.S. Department of State as “exercise increased caution” because of past activities. Some may not feel comfortable traveling to Egypt because of this designation.

I was nervous before our trip because I read that groping and catcalling is commonly experienced by female visitors. We had a few private tours and our guides were a buffer to make sure we weren’t harassed. When we explored on our own or walked along streets, I experienced no harassment and never felt uncomfortable, though I was also traveling with my fiancé, who is a tall, white male.

We did find many people coming up to us to offer their services as guides around tourist sights. We gave them a firm no, sometimes more than once, and they usually left us alone. Because of the economy, I think locals will ask to help you or to buy something out of the desire, and maybe even desperation, to make money, but they will also respect your wishes because they don’t want to hinder tourism by giving you a bad reputation of Egypt.

The most unsafe I felt was when we got into a car we thought was a taxi. Don’t give in to pushy people! Taxis, in general, were questionable to me. One taxi driver tried to make us pay more than we had agreed when we arrived at our destination. But one taxi driver drove us from our hotel to a restaurant and for ease of finding transportation, he, without us asking, promised to be waiting to drive us back after our meal. For price reference, we asked our hotel desk what a typical fare to a specific place would be before we went out. Uber is available in Cairo, so it makes things easier but you’ll be looking for taxis everywhere else. Be cautious but remember not every local is out to get you.

Of course, also use your senses and be a safe and respectful traveler! See my safe travel tips here.

Getting To and Around Egypt

We flew into Cairo International Airport from New York City.

We flew Egypt Air domestically. I wasn’t able to book our flights through the official website because of credit and debit card restrictions. When I called the U.S. office to ask about it and to book by phone, they told me to book through a third party. …ok, then! I booked our domestic flights through Expedia and it was about the same price as on their website. We didn’t have any problems with getting our boarding passes at the gate. Our flights from Cairo to Luxor and Hurghada were about $85-100 plus taxes.

Transportation inside a city: Uber is available in Cairo, which makes things a lot easier. They are also testing Uber Buses in Cairo. If you have booked a tour, you’ll likely ride a bus or a car. Otherwise, there are taxis. Make sure they have registration and are marked. Clearly negotiate your price before the taxi starts driving and be wary of re-negotiation during the ride.

For travel to other cities, check out Go Bus, a private bus company. Cairo to Luxor is less than $10, though remember you’ll also be spending hours on a bus, and that comes with its own possible troubles. You could also find tour companies that will take you to other cities. Do not rent a car and drive yourself because of safety!

There is also the train, but I’ve heard mixed reviews. If you do the overnight train, I’d splurge for a first class, which gives you a private room, so you can lay down. Otherwise, you might have trouble falling asleep with bright lights and lots of noise. The day train will be a lot cheaper than the night train (easily around $80 more) if you want to save money but take up sight-seeing time. Here’s the official Egyptian National Railways website here and you can find more tourist info here.

Here are some travel times to help you plan your trip.

• Flight from Cairo to Luxor: 1 hour
• Drive from Cairo to Luxor: 646 km by road, about 7 hours
• Flight from Cairo to Hurghada: 1 hour
• Drive from Cairo to Hurghada: 460 km by road, about 5 hours
• Train from Cairo to Luxor: 9 hours
• Train from Cairo to Hurghada: 6 hours
• Drive from Hurghada to Luxor: 305 km by road, about 3 hours

What to Wear in Egypt

The attire in Cairo is conservative and it is respectful to follow Egyptian culture while you are there. Visitors will feel more comfortable having covered knees and shoulders. Women may want to have a scarf to cover their heads when visiting mosques. I wore long, light pants with a plain t-shirt every day, as did my fiancé. Closed-toe shoes may make you more comfortable since streets can be dirty and you’ll be doing a lot of walking. Be sure to wear sunglasses, sunscreen, and perhaps a hat to protect yourself from the sun.

Our Egypt Itinerary and Recommendations

We planned our trip around our Red Sea scuba liveaboard and it was the first thing we booked. The liveaboard was a Saturday to a Saturday and leaving from Hurghada. We also wanted to spend time in Cairo and Luxor.

Here’s the itinerary we ended up with:

• Day 1 – Leave the U.S. (Texas) at 9 a.m.
• Day 2 – Arrive in Cairo 11 a.m.; Egyptian Museum, Food Tour
• Day 3 – Giza and Saqqara Half-Day Tour
• Day 4 – Fly to Hurghada, board our liveaboard
• Day 5-11 – Liveaboard sailing the Red Sea
• Day 12 – Fly from Hurghada to Cairo, Cairo to Luxor
• Day 13 – Luxor West and East Banks tour
• Day 14 – Fly from Luxor to Cairo; Explore Khan el-Khalili, Islamic Cairo, the Citadel
• Day 15 – Leave Egypt at 7 a.m. and arrive in the U.S. (Texas) at 10 p.m.

Things I would have changed about our itinerary: On day 12, it might have been easier and cheaper to take a 3-hour bus ride from Hurghada to Luxor instead of flying through Cairo.

Recommendations on Cities to Visit

• You’ll likely land in Cairo and you should spend 2-3 days here.
• You don’t want to miss Luxor and you’ll want at least one full day of sight-seeing.
• To see a different side of Egypt, you might want to go to a beach resort town like Hurghada or Sharm El-Sheik.
• For more history, add a day trip from Cairo to Alexandria or find time to visit Aswan.
• Many visitors do the Nile River Cruise from Luxor to Aswan.

What to Do in Egypt

Other than diving the Red Sea, my favorite memories were visiting the Egyptian Museum, going on the Bellies En-Route food tour, and our day in Luxor with Emo Tours.

If it’s in your budget, booking a tour will add a lot of knowledge and valuable commentary to your experience. There is so much to learn in Egypt and certified Egyptologists have so much to share. I also looked at tour options on Viator and Urban Adventures.

Egyptian Museum

We explored the Egyptian Museum on our own and read commentary from the Lonely Planet guidebook along the way. However, the Egyptian Museum has no signage, so it made figuring out where we were harder and I abandoned the guidebook quickly. I think having a tour guide would have enhanced our experience.

As of 2018, the new Egyptian Museum is being built and is projected to open in 2020. (It broke ground in 2006.) The museum will be moved from Downtown Cairo to outside of Cairo, in Giza near the pyramids. With this changed location, you can easily visit the museum and the pyramids with ease. From my observation, the new museum will easily be 3x the size of the current museum. The current museum is a wonder, but with proper displays, signage, and space, it will entirely change your experience. I mention this in this Cairo sights post.

For more about things to do in Cairo and Luxor, see these posts:

• Marveling The Great Pyramid of Egypt
• Best Things to Do in Cairo
• You Must See Luxor’s Awe-Inspiring Sights When You Visit Egypt
• Diving the Red Sea on a 7-Day Liveaboard

Where to Stay in Egypt

I shared where we stayed and recommendations in the Cairo and Luxor travel guides.

I didn’t love any of the places we stayed, and we stayed in three hotels ranging from $40-90 a night. The rooms either felt dingy or smelled of cigarette smoke, or the hotel had bad food options. We tried to stay in more affordable places, so maybe we could have spent a little more for nicer places. Where we stayed didn’t break our experience. There are surely excellent hotels, so I suggest reading through reviews and looking at photos to learn more about a place before you book. Marriott Mena House in Cairo, which is considered a high-end hotel, ranges from $160-300 a night.

I didn’t book any places on Airbnb because I wanted the extra security and options of a hotel but I did see some places in Cairo that could be good options. If you do want to book an Airbnb, make sure to read the reviews, and you could save money on accommodations by going this route.

Scuba Diving in Egypt

If you’re considering a trip to Egypt, there’s a big chance you are a scuba diver. The Red Sea is one of the world’s best dive locations and it was our main reason for choosing to visit Egypt. Europeans are so lucky to have the Red Sea a quick flight away!

We choose to do a seven-day liveaboard to get the most out of diving. The days on the liveaboard flew by, and all we really did was eat, sleep, and dive.

If you want more tips about diving in Egypt, I have all of those details in this post.

Eating and Drinking in Egypt

Be sure to take a look at this post for all the details on Egyptian dishes. Eat your fill of fava bean falafels for me. I miss them constantly.

Resources

When it comes to finding information, I didn’t find one resource that does a great job on giving you all the info in an efficient way. Also, many of the sights don’t have a website to give you more information. The Egyptian Tourism Authority has the most straight-forward info, and Ask Aladdin is another site with lots of information. I bought Lonely Planet’s Egypt guide but the information was general and I wished it had ranked the sights.

It will help to spend some time researching travel blogs. Here are some posts and videos I looked at:

• Kara and Nate’s Egyptian Pyramids Video
• Alex in Wanderland’s Egypt Itinerary

Conclusion

Hope and sorrow fill Egyptian hearts. The 2011 Revolution brought so much hope, but after the victory, change was forgotten, and the corruption remains the same with a worst-off economy. The rich get richer and the poor get poorer. Locals are cautious about free speech and battle bureaucratic roadblocks. Egyptians have limited ability to travel the world because of where they’re from. Every country has its woes, and these are some of Egypt’s. 

But I don’t fault the locals for how their government is running the country. They are eager for visitors to return to experience their country. One guide told me they are at 10% of the tourism that it once had. That’s a lot of people out of jobs, and it’s also an opportunity for visitors to see many of the sights without ridiculous crowds! I was thankful for the privilege to visit Egypt and I valued being a U.S. citizen more when I returned.

I hope this helps and encourages you to book a trip to Egypt! It’s a perfect place for history buffs and those wanting a different kind of adventure. Choose to see the wonder of what Egypt has to offer over the fear of what you may encounter. Chances are, your worrying was unwarranted and you’ll have a magical experience.

If you want to see my other posts about Egypt, here are the links:

• Marveling The Great Pyramid of Egypt
• Eating and Drinking in Egypt
• Best Things to Do in Cairo
• Cairo Travel Guide
• You Must See Luxor’s Awe-Inspiring Sights When You Visit Egypt
• Luxor Travel Guide
• Diving the Red Sea on a 7-Day Liveaboard

As always, if you have any questions or need more recommendations when you plan your trip, feel free to comment below or send me a message at FearlessCaptivations@gmail.com.

P.S. Looking for more adventures? You should take a look at Thailand or Belize!

Ready for the next adventure? You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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Diving the Red Sea was the whole reason for our Egypt trip! As we were trying to decide where to go on vacation, diving was a big factor. Why not go to one of the best dive destinations in the world? Our trip with Emperor Divers was incredible and it raised the bar for our future liveaboard trips!

That ‘Eat, Sleep, Dive’ Liveaboard Life

With our positive liveaboard experience in Thailand and our desire to visit some of the more remote places in the Red Sea, we decided going on a liveaboard would be the best option. For example, Brothers Islands is one of the best dive sites in the Red Sea and only accessible by liveaboard. It’s located 150 km or about an eight-hour boat ride from the port of Hurghada.

Our typical day looked like this: dive, breakfast, nap, dive, lunch, nap, dive, dinner, sleep. While I took full advantage of nap time, many people also read and hung out. Whenever we heard the bell ring, it was calling us for a dive briefing or a meal.

We had 18 opportunities to dive in those seven days, with two dives being night dives. It’s a bit tedious putting on and taking off a full wetsuit and all the gear multiple times a day, but the crew is very helpful and the opportunity to dive is worth it!

Emperor Echo of the Red Sea

Emperor Divers has definitely set the bar for future liveaboards because the cabins (or at least our room) were so luxurious! Spacious twin beds, our own bathroom and shower, and a window. There were one or two days where it was hard to sleep because the boat was rocking so hard but otherwise, I was nice and cozy. (Our Thailand liveaboard had bunk beds for two and two bathroom-shower combos for 20 people.)

And the food! We ate so well on the boat! Three chefs cranked out three hearty meals plus snacks every day. There were a few Western dishes but the majority were Egyptian. I ate fava bean falafels or something with fava beans every day. The buffets had a great variety, many times there was hot soup, and there was always a dessert spread.

In addition to the three chefs, there were two dive instructors, a captain, and a crew to help with meals, dive equipment, and other tasks. They were full of smiles and happy to help with every task, from putting on your wetsuit to taking your plate after a meal.

Diving was excellent! The instructors focused on giving us the best experience possible. Since there were 26 of us, we prepared and jumped off in two groups. We rented full gear except for our mask. We also rented a computer as it was required for each diver to have one. They provided free nitrox, which was nice.

Emperor Divers also has liveaboards in Indonesia and Maldives, and I’ll definitely be looking at their boats whenever we visit those destinations.

Best Dive Sites in the Red Sea

I recommend a liveaboard to see the many dive sites in Egypt. Otherwise, you’ll likely be based in one city (or two, if you hop) and have a limitation of a three-hour boat ride to the farthest dive site. Our liveaboard took the “Famous Five” route and it hit a variety of wrecks and reefs. Here are some of the sites we dove and ones I considered when planning our trip.

S.S. Thistlegorm was a British cargo ship on its way from Glasgow, Ireland to the Allies in Alexandria, Egypt when it was sunk in the Gulf of Suez by the Germans in World War 2. It was discovered by Jacques Cousteau in the fifties and gained recognition as a dive location in the nineties. It’s noted as one of the best wreck dive sites in the world.

Rosalie Moller is a wreck lying at about 30-50 meters down. The ship, also located in the Gulf of Suez, was bombed and sunk two days after the Thistlegorm. Because the ship sits so deep, you’ll only spend a few minutes exploring it before needing to ascend, but it was a very interesting dive.

Only accessible by liveaboard, Brothers Islands (Big and Little Brother) are known for its shark sightings. We saw plenty of oceanic white tips and a hammerhead, and it’s also known for threshers. Off of Big Brother, where the lighthouse is, you’ll find the Numidia wreck and Aida II wreck. They are covered in coral and a beautiful spot to dive. You’ll also find strong currents here so be ready.

Abu Nuhas Wrecks is a site with four wrecks – Giannis D, Carnatic, Chrisoula K, and Kimon M.

Ras Mohammed National Park is a protected park, so you’ll find rich corals here. Shark and Yolanda Reef is a fun dive with a lot of life and the Yolanda wreck of 1980. You’ll see a bunch of toilets, sinks, and wallpaper from the wreck!

Elphinstone Reef is known for its drift dives and walls.

Daedalus Reef is part of the Marine Park Islands National Park. It’s known for its walls and drop-offs.

Favorite Underwater Sights

Our list of things seen is long! We got a good look at several octopuses, which were at the top of my list. We also spotted a hammerhead shark and tons of oceanic white tip sharks. Colorful nudibranchs and a starfish were also high on my list.

Thistlegorm was incredible! If you remember, we had dove one wreck previously, Kittiwake in Grand Cayman. I didn’t enjoy that experience, so I wasn’t looking forward to Thistlegorm. I was wrong! Seeing the old motorcycles, trucks, boots, and other cargo still on the ship was hauntingly beautiful. Also, Thistlegorm didn’t feel as claustrophobic as Kittiwake even though it involved some tight spaces as well.

Info About Diving the Red Sea

There is diving in Egypt year-round but the best time to go is from July to December. September, October, and November are high season. We dove in October and wore full 5mm wetsuits.

Divers come to Egypt because it has everything from wrecks, reefs, walls, and large and small life. Most of all, the health of the reefs and clarity of the water ensures fantastic diving all around.

We picked Emperor Divers because the date, price, and location lined up with when we wanted to visit. I used the PADI travel website to compare dates, prices, and routes. You can also search on Liveaboard.com.

The one negative thing about our liveaboard trip was that a few dives at Brothers Islands were a little chaotic. With 15 liveaboards tied up, many divers in the water, and strong currents, it’s the setting for a lot of traffic underwater. Surprisingly, the curious oceanic white tip sharks seemed to be more drawn to the commotion, so we saw plenty of them!

If you’re looking stay on land instead of a liveaboard, here are some places to check out:

• Reef Oasis Blue Bay Resort (Sharm El Sheikh)
• Dahab Divers Lodge (Dahab)
• Euro Divers Grand Hotel Hurghada (Hurghada)

Liveaboards depart from Hurghada, Marsa Alam/Marsa Ghalib, Sharm El Sheikh, and Safaga, depending on the route. Most are seven days, though there is one that is three days. If you want to do a liveaboard, consider planning a year out to secure your spot.

Conclusion

Everyone on the boat was gloomy on the last day because we weren’t ready to leave. We had spent seven days diving and hanging out with new friends. It was a memorable experience. This liveaboard trip will always be special to us since it’s where we got engaged but it was also a bucket list trip to dive the Red Sea. I hope we make it back here one day to experience it again!

Want more Egypt? Check out the posts here!

You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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Why Visit Luxor?

Cairo might get a lot of the buzz because of the pyramids, but Luxor is where you will truly be amazed by the expanse of Egypt’s history. Luxor is much quieter and rural than Cairo, which can be a welcome respite from the bustle.

Quick Tips for Luxor

• Water: Keep to bottled water in Luxor.Currency: Egyptian Pound or LE. As of 2018, $1 USD is about 17 LE.
• Keep small bills around for tips.
• Religion: The majority of Egyptians are Muslim.
• Ramadan is celebrated in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and the dates vary from year to year. During this time, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown. Do not visit during this time or you may have trouble finding open restaurants. Also, drinking and eating in public while others are fasting could be seen as disrespectful.
• Women should bring their own sanitary products. Pads are expensive and tampons are hard to find.
• Safety: Trust your instincts and be cautious. See safety tips here.

Weather

Welcome to the desert! Luxor, like most of Egypt, is hot. You’ll find lows in the 30s and highs in the 100s. June, July, and August are the hottest months while December, January, and February will be the coolest. The best time to go is in September, October, or November. There will be lots of sun without much shade so bring a hat and sunscreen.

Getting There

If you fly, you’ll land at Luxor International Airport. It’s a small airport with a few shops.

You could also take Go Bus, an affordable private bus company, or Egyptian Railways.

Getting Around Luxor

There’s no Uber in Luxor, so you’ll need to rely on taxis. You’ll usually find them waiting outside your hotel and at the airport. Make sure they have registration and are clearly marked. Clearly negotiate your price before the taxi starts driving and be wary of re-negotiation during the ride.

What to Wear in Luxor

The attire in Luxor is conservative and it is respectful to follow Egyptian culture while you are there. Visitors will feel more comfortable having covered knees and shoulders. I wore long, light pants with a plain t-shirt every day. Wear comfortable and closed-toe shoes.

Where to Stay in Luxor

I think it is easier to stay on the east bank because it is on the same side as the airport. We stayed at Sonesta St. George. It has three different restaurants and a spa. It wasn’t as nice as I thought it would be but we didn’t have any serious issues.

When looking at hotels, read reviews to check the condition of the room. I also looked at these hotels in Luxor:

• Steinberger Nile Palace
• Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor (this is the most well-known and fanciest hotel in Luxor)
• Cleopatra Hotel
• Nefertiti Hotel

Where to Eat/Drink in Luxor

See this post for the types of food and drink you’ll enjoy in Luxor.

Remember that Egypt is majority Muslim, and pork is rarely eaten and served.

We ate most of our meals at our hotel because of convenience but we did venture out to Luxor’s well-known restaurant Sofra. The food was great and their upstairs patio is a fun atmosphere.

What to Do in Luxor

I detailed out all the sights we saw in Luxor in this post. We did a tour with Emo Tours. I highly recommend you do a guided tour of both the West Bank and East Bank. Egyptologists have an incredible wealth of knowledge about the expansive history of Egypt and it enriched our experience by having a guide.

Conclusion

As you can see from this post, Luxor was a magical city to visit. I wish I could snap my fingers and be back here, discovering something new and being amazed by the deep history. If you get the chance to visit, I recommend it!

For more Egypt posts, see them here! See my full guide to planning your Egypt trip here.

Keep up with my travel posts and adventures. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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One of my favorite days in Egypt was when we explored Luxor. Sight after sight was jaw-dropping, and I was in awe of the history, the beauty, and the quantity. I’m excited to share all about it in this post!

When you visit Luxor, you’ll definitely want to visit both the east and west banks. It was a FULL day of exploring but worth the sweat and tired legs. (If you have more time in Luxor, you could book each bank on separate days.) I booked our trip through Emo Tours and Naama was an incredible tour guide. I highly recommend her. We were surprised to find it was a private tour, but we appreciated the intimacy and ability to drive the pace of our tour.

Here’s more information about each sight we went to!

Temple of Hatshepsut / Al-Deir Al-Bahari Temple (West Bank)

Being the first sight of our day, it came with a lot of anticipation, and the Temple of Hatshepsut did not disappoint. Did you know Hatshepsut was one of the most successful Egyptian pharaohs? Egypt was prosperous in her 20-year reign. She’s also the most important indigenous Egyptian female pharaoh. The grandeur of her three-level temple illustrated all of this.

She was the mother to a daughter and her husband, who was also her half-brother, had a son with a second wife. When her husband, Thutmose II, died, she held the regent position because his son, Thutmose III, was too young to rule. After seven years, she claimed the throne. After Hatshepsut died, Thutmose III rose to power and tried to erase his stepmother’s existence, as seen through defaced walls of the temple and destroyed statues. He tried to put his name and face in place of hers to claim her accomplishments as his own.

People didn’t know her story until they deciphered hieroglyphics in the 19th century and started putting all the pieces, sometimes literally, together. Seeing Hatshepsut’s temple and hearing her story was fascinating to me!

Valley of the Kings (West Bank)

Because pyramids seemed to be a beacon for robbers, later pharaohs decided to be a little more discreet. They started going to a desolate valley, marked by a tall rock that looked a little like a pyramid. There have been 63 tombs found here, including that of Tutankhamun, though there is little to see in his tomb. The tombs have one to 120 chambers, many decorated with paintings on the walls.

I love this model they have in the visitors center showing all the tombs.

With our ticket, we were able to pick three tombs to enter. We went into the tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV, and Ramses IX, per the recommendation of our tour guide. Each had its significance, from the colors on the wall to the number of chambers. Tutankhamun’s tomb is here but it is a separate ticket. 

If you want to take photos inside the tombs, you’ll need to buy an additional photo ticket for 300 LE or about $17 USD. Don’t plan on sneaking photos without this ticket because there are people inside the tombs who will take your camera and threaten to take you to the police. You can pay them off, but it’s easier to have this ticket.

Colossi of Memnon (East Bank)

We made a quick stop at the Colossi of Memnon, two statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III. These massive statues are about 60 feet in height, identical, and the guards of a memorial temple’s entrance, though little remains of the temple. An earthquake destroyed the statues, so what you see has been pieced together.

Karnak (East Bank)

Karnak is a complex of over 200 structures built over centuries by many rulers. Known as the second most visited place in Egypt, Karnak is a maze of columns, structures, and buildings. These temples were to honor and communicate with Egyptian gods. At about 2 square kilometers, it’s thought to be the largest religious building in the world.

The history at Karnak is long and deep. If you’re interested, read more about it and definitely get a tour guide to give you the highlights.

Luxor Temple (East Bank)

Luxor Temple is not as expansive or majestic as Karnak but it is still a place you should visit. Here you’ll find great structures. When we went in the afternoon, it was surprisingly quiet.

Luxor Temple was buried for thousands of years and the city built up around it. Look up and you’ll see the Mosque of Abu Haggag sitting on top of some ruins!

Karnak seems to get a lot of recognition, but with more care, Luxor Temple can have the grandeur as Karnak. For example, they recently decided to clean the walls and, lo and behold, they found original colors on the walls! I think this is a great example of the fact that there are SO many artifacts in Egypt that sometimes things get ignored or they run out of funds for excavation and restoration. If you trip on something in the desert, who knows, maybe you’ve discovered a long-lost statue!

New sphinx statues were discovered THIS YEAR and they are currently working on excavating these and re-building the road from Karnak to Luxor Temple.

Luxor Sights Costs and Entrance Fees

• Emo Tours: $105 USD for two people. Again, our tour with Naama was excellent! The tour included 5 sights, car transportation, lunch, and snacks. You’ll make a stop at a shop but you are not obligated to buy anything.
• Temple of Hatshepsut: 80 LE or about $5 USD
• Valley of the Kings: 80 LE or about $5 USD. Photo ticket for 300 LE or about $17 USD.
• Colossi of Memnon: Free
• Karnak: 120 LE or about $7 USD
• Luxor Temple: 100 LE or about $6 USD

Conclusion

The grandeur and quantity of the things we saw on our tour of Luxor were fascinating. It was one of the most memorable days of our Egypt trip. If you visit Egypt, you can’t miss Luxor!

See my full guide of Luxor, with recommendations for hotels, to plan your trip!

P.S. Want to see more posts from my Egypt trip? Click here!

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Why Visit Cairo?

Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is a city of new and old. You’ll be amazed by the history at the Pyramids, in the Egyptian Museum, mosques, and in the neighborhoods. It’s also a bustling city where a New Cairo continues to build. The city is also the largest in Africa and the largest in the Middle East and Arab nations. All of this makes Cairo an important cultural place to explore!

Quick Tips for Cairo

• Water: Some say you can drink the tap water when you’re in Cairo center but not in the outskirts. We kept it safe and drank bottled water the entire time we were there.
• Currency: Egyptian Pound or LE. As of 2018, $1 USD is about 17 E£.
• Language: Arabic and there are a few dialects
• Tipping: If you see a service charge on your bill, this is for the restaurant. Usually tip 10% for wait staff. Keep small bills around for tips.
• Visas & Entry: For U.S. citizens, your passport must be valid for six months. When you arrive at the airport, you must get a visa from the bank window before going through immigration.
• Safety: As of 2018, Egypt has a travel advisory from the U.S. Department of State as “exercised increased caution” because of activities. Some may not feel comfortable traveling to Egypt because of this designation. See below my section about safety.
• Vaccinations: No special vaccinations needed.
• You’ll see a lot of pollution in Cairo.
• Religion: The majority of Egyptians are Muslim.
• Ramadan is celebrated in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and the dates vary from year to year. During this time, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown. Do not visit during this time or you may have trouble finding open restaurants. Also, drinking and eating in public while others are fasting could be seen as disrespectful.
• Women should bring their own sanitary products. Pads are expensive and tampons are hard to find.
• Book tours ahead of time. I’m glad we had several tours booked because they gave us a lot of knowledge and a peace of mind. We didn’t have to worry about transportation and we had a guide to help us navigate the city.
• Trust your instincts, be cautious, and stay safe!

Cairo Weather

Welcome to the desert! With lows in the 30s and highs in the 100s, Cairo’s climate is usually hot. June, July, and August are the hottest while December, January, and February will be the coolest. The best time to go is in September, October, or November. Remember, the desert doesn’t have a lot of shade, so expect plenty of sunshine.

Getting There

You’ll fly to Cairo International Airport. It’s a fairly easy airport, especially if you’re flying domestically. The domestic terminals were eerily quiet when we were there. The food options are dismal.

Be sure to get to the airport early when you fly out internationally. We had to go through three different security lines before getting on our plane. There is even one at the gate, so don’t plan on buying bottled water to take on your flight.

Getting Around Cairo

Using Uber made life a lot easier while in Cairo. We didn’t have to worry about negotiating rates and communicating our destination. We also didn’t worry as much about safety by using rideshare. It was also affordable. We took rides 20-40 minutes and our rides ranged from $3-6 USD.

We took a few taxis from the airport and hotel. Make sure they have registration and are marked. Clearly negotiate your price before the taxi starts driving and be wary of re-negotiation during the ride.

What to Wear in Cairo

The attire in Cairo is conservative and it is respectful to follow Egyptian culture while you are there. Visitors will feel more comfortable having covered knees and shoulders. Women may want to have a scarf to cover their heads when visiting mosques. I wore long, light pants with a plain t-shirt every day, as did my fiancé. Closed-toe shoes may make you more comfortable since streets can be dirty and you’ll be doing a lot of walking. Be sure to wear sunglasses, sunscreen, and perhaps a hat to protect yourself from the sun.

Is Cairo Safe?

Yes, Cairo is safe. I was nervous before our trip because I read that groping and catcalling is commonly experienced by female visitors. I experienced none of this and never felt uncomfortable, though I was also traveling with my fiancé, who is a tall, white male.

We did find many people coming up to us to offer their services as guides around tourist sights, which can be annoying. We gave them a firm no, sometimes more than once, and they usually left us alone. Because of the economy, I think locals will ask to help you out of the desire to make money, but they will also respect your wishes because they don’t want to hinder tourism.

The most unsafe I felt was when we got into a car we thought was a taxi. We later figured out he was a tour guide and he took us to two locations, but we were lucky. Don’t give in to pushy people! Taxis, in general, were questionable to me, so Uber is the way to go!

Of course, also use your senses and be a safe traveler! See my safe travel tips here. Do the typical things like not wandering around by yourself at night.

Where to Stay in Cairo

We stayed in two hotels in Cairo. City View Hotel is next to Tahrir Square. It was about $40 a night and not luxurious at all, but the location was great to explore the neighborhood. We also stayed in Le Passage Cairo, which is next to the airport, because we were flying out the next morning. It’s a longer distance from sights but it had a free airport shuttle.

I would have loved to stay at the luxurious Mena House, but since it is located in Giza and we had limited time, it would have made it harder to explore Cairo.

I also looked at this Airbnb and these hotels that were centrally located and ranged from $100-130 a night:

• Steigenberger Hotel
• Kempinski Nile Hotel Garden City Cairo
• Ramses Hilton

Where to Eat/Drink in Cairo

See this post for the types of food and drink you’ll enjoy in Cairo. Remember Cairo is a majority Muslim city and pork is rarely eaten and served.

Here are some restaurants you should check out in Cairo and Giza:

• Abou Tarek – located behind Tahrir Square, this is a well-known place for koshary
• Abu Shakrah – in Giza near Sphinx
• Felfela – great restaurant with traditional dishes like lentil soup and falafel
• Sequoia – on the Nile
• Abu Haidar – shawarma
• Fasahet Somaya – one of our favorite dining experiences in Egypt

What to Do in Cairo

Check out this post for more details on activities and sights. You don’t want to miss the pyramids and I highly recommend the Bellies En-Route food tour.

Conclusion

We enjoyed Cairo but we quickly realized there was much more to see as we hopped to another city. More about those destinations coming soon!

If you have any recommendations for Cairo, share them below! If you have any questions as you plan your trip, feel free to send me a message.

The adventure continues. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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Cairo, Egypt’s capital city, is a bustling place filled with good food and some amazing sights.

I hope this post can get you in the right direction of figuring out what to do. Here are some places you should check out when you visit Cairo!

Giza Pyramids Complex

It feels slightly silly to start off this post by directing you outside of Cairo but chances are, this is what you’ve come to Cairo to see. The famous pyramids are awe-inspiring. Located about 30 minutes outside of Cairo in the city of Giza, they’re fairly easy to get to and explore. Even if you don’t stay long or go inside, it’s a bucket list item to see it with your own eyes. I tell you all about our visit and tips in this post.

Egyptian Museum

Another site you can’t miss is the Egyptian Museum. They are currently building the new museum complex near the Giza Pyramids Complex and it’s projected to be done in 2020. We drove by it on the way to the pyramids and it will be incredible when it is finished!

However, the Egyptian Museum is still open in Downtown Cairo near Tahrir Square and you’ll easily spend a few hours exploring all the rooms. It is a little chaotic since there is little signage for so many statues and artifacts. They have clearly outgrown the space but that adds to the intrigue of the number of items you can view.

Tahrir Square

Tahrir Square is near the Egyptian Museum. Most recently, it was the place of political demonstrations in 2013 and during the 2011 Revolution. Hundreds of thousands gathered here to protest.

Bellies En-Route Food Tour

We did this food tour on our first night in Cairo, and I’m so glad we did! We tried many of the dishes in my eating and drinking in Egypt post and was a good introduction to the dishes we would be enjoying.

Khan El-Khalili

If you’re looking for souvenirs or want to experience a crazy market, this is the place! Blocks and blocks of this bazaar are filled with shops and tourists. Located in Islamic Cairo, you’ll get a glimpse of old architecture and wander the maze of shops.

Citadel of Cairo

The Saladin Citadel of Cairo is a historic Islamic complex that was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1976. Here you’ll find a few museums and the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque, and the Mosque of Sulayman Pasha.

Mosques

If you’d like to visit older and more beautiful mosques than those in the Citadel, consider these options.

• Al-Azhar Mosque – one of the oldest mosques, it is also considered one of the most beautiful.
• Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan – one of the biggest mosques, its Islamic architecture is a sight to see.
• Mosque of Ibn Tulun – the oldest mosque in Cairo, it’s recognized by its flat square roof.
• Al-Hussein Mosque – located near Khan El-Khalili, this mosque is considered one of the most sacred Islamic sites and is the burial place for the grandson of Prophet Muhammad.

The Nile River

You can’t miss the Nile River. You’ve probably read about it in history books, so seeing it in person is a little surreal. Walk along the streets near Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum and you’ll see it. A popular activity is taking a felucca ride along the Nile.

Cairo Tower

Shaped like a lotus flower, the Cairo Tower was once the tallest structure in Egypt and North Africa. The funds to build the tower came from a U.S. bribe to the Egyptian president in the 1960s. Taking the bribe as an offense, the president used the money to build this tower. The tower has an observation deck and restaurant.

Coptic Cairo: The Hanging Church, Coptic Museum, Babylon Fortress, and More

Coptic Cairo is in Old Cairo and was the place where Christianity thrived among the Islamic and Muslim majority. Here is where you’ll find The Hanging Church, Babylon Fortress, and Church of St. George, to name a few historic sites. The Coptic Museum holds the largest collection of Coptic artifacts.

Museum of Islamic Art

The Museum of Islamic Art holds the largest collection of Islamic art in the world. More than 100,000 artifacts of intricate designs, manuscripts, and craftsmanship will have your head spinning with creativity.

City of the Dead – Not Recommended

One local kept telling us that we had to see the City of the Dead, so I wanted to include information about this here so you know what it is. The City of the Dead started as a cemetery and parts of it still is that. Poverty in Cairo has pushed the poorest out and many have ended up living in the mausoleums of the cemetery. While it might be interesting that 500,000 people are living next to tombs and some of the tombs are beautiful, it’s also one of the worst slums in the country. In my opinion, it is not somewhere travelers should go to sight-see.

Want to see more about my Egypt trip? See the posts here.

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I wasn’t sure what to expect for cuisine during our Egypt trip, but I was pleasantly surprised. While my research found a handful of traditional dishes for Egyptian cuisine, I also thought it would be a mix of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes like hummus, beans, and eggplants. It was all of that and more! Now that I’m back, I find myself wishing I had another bite of taamiya or a big cup of fresh mango juice.

Taking the Bellies En-Route food tour our first night was an excellent way to introduce us to the wonderful food we’d be eating for two weeks. We had an incredible time eating bite after bite, walking the streets of Cairo, and learning about Egyptian culture. From that initial introduction, we ate at restaurants we were recommended, restaurants chosen by tour guides, and a variety of Egyptian cuisine on our liveaboard.

Here are some of the dishes and drinks you can expect when you visit Egypt.

Ful (Fava Beans)

Fava beans are a staple in Egyptian cuisine, and we ate them in taamiya, slow-cooked, and as besara or a paste-like hummus or baba ghanoush.

Taamiya (Falafel)

My favorite way to eat ful is taamiya, the light and fluffy falafels. I didn’t like falafels before I went to Egypt. Something about chickpea falafels has always been off to me, either the taste or the texture. But I could eat these fava bean falafels all day!

Aish Baladi (Egyptian Bread)

Made with whole wheat flour, this Egyptian bread looks like a pita and tastes like a mix between pita and sourdough bread. It’s served with most meals and is the perfect accompaniment to wrap around eggplant or falafel or dip into a soup. I loved seeing people carrying big wood planks piled high with these on the street to sell.

Lentil Soup

I couldn’t get enough lentil soup in Egypt, and we had it at several meals. Squeeze a bit of lemon juice into your soup and it changes the flavor profile.

Muyyet Salata (Salad Water)

This drink is like a salad in a shot glass. Bits of salad are drenched in vinegar, oil, lemon, dill, salt, pepper, garlic, and chili powder. It’s fairly strong and seems to double as a palate and stomach cleanser. Usually served before street food, it’s supposed to encourage you to eat more!

Mahshi (Rice-Stuffed Vegetables)

It seems like a simple dish, but it’s actually a dish that’s a labor of love as many told us. The rice is cooked with onion, tomato, dill, cilantro, and parsley. It is then stuffed inside vegetables like cabbage, eggplant, bell peppers, and squash.

Koshari

The Egyptian dish you’re bound to hear about and try is koshari, also sometimes spelled koshary. It’s a mix of spaghetti, vermicelli, lentils, rice, hummus, and macaroni topped with fried onions, tomato sauce, and garlic vinegar dressing.

Feteer or Fiteer

This layered pastry is known as Egyptian pizza and comes savory or sweet. The dough is like a flakier pita or roti. The sweet version I had was filled with molasses and rolled. Yum!

Bentengan Ma’li (Fried Eggplant)

I love eggplant, so I looked forward to it at multiple meals. We had it fried, grilled, and blended as baba ghanoush. My favorite was lightly fried so that it had a nice crisp on the outside.

Molokhia or Mulukhiyah

This traditional, leafy soup is made with okra leaves, stock, garlic, and spices. The texture is slimy as you can imagine pureed okra would be as a soup. It’s eaten as a dip with Egyptian bread or with rice and grilled meats.

Hamam Mahshi (Stuffed Pigeon)

I couldn’t leave Egypt without trying this popular dish – stuffed pigeon! It tasted like chicken. The dish I got had little meat and was stuffed with rice.

Macarona Béchamel

You may find this casserole dish familiar. This baked pasta dish is made with penne pasta, béchamel sauce, minced meat, onions, garlic, and spices. Served with a side of tomato sauce, this Egyptian comfort food is a local favorite.

Shawarma

We had shawarma at a popular restaurant recommended by our tour guide. We ordered by pointing and about two words of English. I think the meat was beef and lamb and it was delicious! We also got a plate of pickled vegetables with it.

Mangoes

Is Egypt mango heaven? I ate the best mangoes in Egypt!

Fresh Juice

You’ll know the juice shops by the hanging mesh bags of fruit. Egyptians stop and order a cup in the morning, down the cup, and move on. Mango juice was my favorite but we also tried cantaloupe and sugarcane.

Kunafa or Kanafeh

This traditional Middle Eastern dessert is made with thin dough and has a layer of cheese, cream, and/or nuts. (See photo below.)

Basbousa

Similar to kunafa and also known as semolina cake, basbousa is made with semolina flour and drenched in syrup. Sometimes shredded coconut is added. This was one of my favorite desserts in Egypt! (See photo below.)

Zalabia

These fried dough balls remind me of donuts. They’re usually dipped in a sugar syrup.

Left to Right: Zalabia, Kunafa, Basbousa

Arabic Coffee

I couldn’t believe this was coffee when I first tasted it! Made from a lightly roasted bean, Arabic coffee looks and tastes like tea, and I love the added cardamom. I’ll definitely be on the lookout to drink more of this!

Tea (Shai)

Tea is the national drink of Egypt. It’s typically black and served warm with tea bags.

Beer and Alcohol

The purchase and consumption of alcohol in public are limited in Egypt because the majority of people follow Islamic tradition, but it’s available at hotels and tourist-oriented restaurants. Stella is the most popular beer brand in Egypt, though you’ll also find a brand called Sakara.

Have you tried any of these dishes before?

P.S. Looking for more Egypt posts? See them here!

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It’s the (unplanned) year of the pyramids! Less than a year ago, I was exploring Xunantunich in Belize and then we visited Teotihuacan in Mexico a few months ago. Of course, we couldn’t visit Egypt without a visit to one of the seven wonders of the world – the Great Pyramid of Egypt.

The Great Pyramid of Egypt – WOW!

Before the Eiffel Tower was built, the Great Pyramid was the tallest man-made structure in the world for over 3,000 years at 481 feet. The Great Pyramid of Giza, built over twenty years, is also known as the Pyramid of Khufu. It’s now 450 feet tall.

Pyramids were built for religious reasons as a pathway to the afterlife. The pyramids’ chambers were built according to the cardinal directions of east and west. As the sun rises and life begins in the east and the sun sets and life ends in the west, so the pharaoh will be able to walk east to west inside the pyramid into the afterlife. Pyramids also served as a monument for the king to represent his legacy.

The efforts to build the Great Pyramid are baffling. How did they build this humongous structure without modern technology? What did their blueprints look like? Researchers have estimated over two million blocks, and the average size of the blocks is two tons! The theory of how it was built includes ramps, water, and many skilled workers.

The pyramid was a beacon and probably unusual to see in a desert, so it attracted attention. This means the tombs were looted and even mummies disappeared. The tombs were stocked with riches, tools, and anything the pharaoh would need when he entered the afterlife.

Should I Go Inside the Great Pyramid?

While climbing the pyramid (past the first landing) is now prohibited, you can still enter the tomb. It’s a fairly quick trip but don’t do it if you get claustrophobic or don’t like being hot. It can also be hard for tall people. The pathway in and out are the same and it’s a narrow journey under short spaces, on steep walkways, and with no ventilation.

It’s cool to say you’ve been inside the pyramid but it’s not life-changing. The final destination inside is a dark, empty room. If you want to see more impressive tombs, go to the Saqqara pyramids about 20 minutes away or the Valley of the Kings in Luxor.

But There is More Than One Pyramid Here

The Giza Pyramid complex includes five additional pyramids and the Sphinx. (Fun fact: there are 118 discovered pyramids in Egypt.)

Khufu’s son Khafre built the second pyramid and the Great Sphinx of Giza. His is the only pyramid with the facade still existing at the top. While his pyramid is shorter than his father’s pyramid, at certain viewpoints, the optical illusion makes it look taller. Sneaky son! (It’s the middle pyramid in all of these photos.)

The third and smallest pyramid was built 30 years after the second by Pharaoh Menkaure. Nearby, there are also three small pyramids built for Khufu’s wives.

The Great Sphinx of Giza

The Great Sphinx of Giza is a giant statue with a human head and a lion’s body. This one is thought to be guarding the pyramid.

At the Sphinx, you’ll get a sense of how close the city of Giza has built up around the complex. A short walk and across the street from the Sphinx is the neighborhood and the Pizza Hut with the most epic view.

How Do I Get to the Pyramids?

The pyramids are located in Giza, a city about 15 minutes (without traffic) and 10 miles outside of Cairo. We arrived around 8 a.m. and it was already getting busy, though most of the tours arrive by 9 or 10 a.m.

There are many tour buses and private tours that will take you here. We did a 5-6 hour private tour to Giza and Saqqara with Love Egypt Holidays and our guide Shereif was FULL of information. I also browsed through Viator when searching for a tour. We chose to do a tour because it made transportation easy and guides can enhance the experience, especially in Egypt where history runs deep. They also show you the best poses, such as the below photo.

Our tour stopped at three different spots around the complex for different views. If you’re not a part of a tour, you’ll need to walk from the entrance or find a camel!

There are many hotels in Giza, including the luxurious and award-winning Mena House, but we elected to stay in Cairo since there is more to do there. If you don’t mind hotel-hopping, you could easily get a hotel in walking distance from the Giza Pyramid Complex for one-night and head back to Cairo for the rest of your trip. I estimate a rideshare from downtown Cairo to the pyramids is no more than $5 USD.

Quick Tips for Giza Pyramid Complex

• Be sure to wear sunscreen and bring water. There is little shade at this site. A hand or battery-powered fan might be handy too.
• I recommend wearing closed toe shoes, especially if you’re going inside the pyramid.
• Costs: 50 LE (about $2.79 USD) to get into the complex; additional 100 LE (about $5.58 USD) to go inside the Great Pyramid; additional 20 LE (about $1.12 USD) to go inside Khafre’s pyramid
• Solar Boat Museum: Behind the Great Pyramid is this museum that houses the huge boat found near the pyramid. It was to be used by the pharaoh to get to the afterlife. Admission is 50 LE (about $2.79 USD).
• Camel rides: if you want to ride a camel in Egypt, this is probably the most scenic location. If you do a camel ride, choose a camel that looks healthy and well cared for. The cost will be around 50 LE (about $2.79 USD).
• Hassles and Scams: Know what you’re getting into. If you take a photo of a camel, if someone offers to take a photo for you, or if someone offers to guide you, it is likely not for free. Give a small tip for photos, and for a guide or camel ride, agree on a price and be clear on the terms before you start.

Pyramid of Djoser at Saqqara

If you want to see the first pyramid, go to Saqqara, which is about 20 minutes away. The Pyramid of Djoser, also known as the Step Pyramid is here along with many other ruins. Since most people only go to the Giza Pyramid Complex, this archeological site is pretty quiet. The admission fee is 60 LE (about $3.35 USD).

Don’t forget a selfie with a camel!

Conclusion

The Great Pyramid and Egyptian pyramids, in general, were on my life list but not high on my priority list. It was incredible to experience!

It only gets better from here. While the pyramids were high on my list of memories from this trip, can you believe this was my least favorite?! I’m hustling to share everything in the next two months, so more posts on Egypt coming soon!

What sight or landmark is number one on your life list?

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